PUERTO VALLARTA, MEXICO

Über-couple Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor fell for Puerto Vallarta while filming John Huston’s Night of the Iguana, eventually building their own love nest overlooking the city’s iconic cathedral. Today, the city continues to be one of Mexico’s most alluring modern colonials, attracting a dynamic, diverse crowd united by one certainty: they always return.

Getting Around
From the airport, you’ll have a wide variety of taxi companies to choose from, most offering reasonable
(and comparable) rates; once you’ve settled into your hotel, a taxi can usually be hired on a moment’s notice. If you’re not in a hurry—and you shouldn’t be, after all—consider the local bus system. Depending upon where you’re staying, you can probably catch one of these quirky coaches in minutes with just a short walk. In addition to saving more than a few pesos, you’ll be treated to a more authentic immersion in the city’s colorful culture.

Night Out
If you’d rather dodge the ubiquitous tourist gridlock of Vallarta’s popular Malecón area, head for the comparatively calm Marina Vallarta—El Faro Lighthouse Bar offers live jazz nightly with spectacular sunset views (322-223-2155). Garbo’s in the chic Olas Altas area serves up an enticing selection of funky martinis on its ocean-view patio.
And, since longtime Flamenco fixtures Willie and Lobo play a variety of Vallarta venues, it’s easy to
work an evening with the duo into nearly any travel schedule (www.willieandlobo.com).

Don’t Miss
Slave to your sweet tooth? A true Vallarta tradition, ChocoBanana continues to hold court on the corner of Amapas and Púlpito in the Zona Romántica; this tiny old-school stand offers fresh-frozen banana, mango, pineapple or strawberries dipped in chocolate, then rolled in coconut or granola.  Seeking more permanent satisfaction? At Talavera Etc., you’ll find top-tier handicrafts from all over the country, including the city’s best collection of artisan Talavera pottery.

Tuck In
With a breathtaking beachfront location just minutes from the city center, the Villa Premiere Hotel & Spa (AAA four-diamond award-winner) takes superlative service to an entirely new level. Upon arrival, you’re welcomed with a complimentary cocktail and a heavenly hand-and-neck massage—and invited to select a scent for customized in-room aromatherapy (www.premiereonline.com.mx) For an incomparably intimate escape, check in at the Hacienda San Angel; perched on a hilltop overlooking the Bahía Banderas, this opulent offering was once home to Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor (www.haciendasanangel.com).

Food Fix

By Staci Amend