Insider's Guide – Cancún

True Cancún

By Lena Katz

Over–the–top and built to the hilt–with theme parks that sprawl for miles, skyscraper hotels lining the main boulevard, and enough cervezas to send a million Spring Breakers up a happily sozzled creek–Cancún was specially designed to be an ultimate, unabashed tourist playground. Looking around the broad Hotel Zone boulevards or the vast 700–room resorts, it’s hard to believe that two generations ago, this was a quiet fishing village at risk of disappearing altogether.

Thread Count

Arguably no destination in the Continental Americas does the all–inclusive resort experience bigger and better than Cancún. Of its many variations on the prix–fixe vacay, best–in–class include the elegant new Grand Velas Riviera Maya (866–230–7221) flagship, buzzy Miami–styled newcomer Azul Sensatori (888–774–0040), and the budget–stretching family–friendly Barceló chain (800–227–2356). If a la carte’s for you, indulge in Euro–inspired sophistication and New World cuisine at Live Aqua Cancún (888–782–9722), or find romance off the beaten path at serene Ceiba del Mar (877–545–6221).

Food Fix

An authentic Mexican culinary experience is not easy to find in Cancún, but Checándole downtown on Xpuhil Avenue (884–7147) offers tasty, not–too–pricey regional standards. Another tropical vacation must–do, the romantic oceanview sunset seafood feast, awaits at Mocambo (883–0398). Handsome, pricey and busy–busy, Puerto Madero (885–2829) provides Cancún’s version of an Argentinean steakhouse. Finally, foodies must visit Cancún’s most buzzed–about bistro, John Gray’s Downtown (883–9800).

Night Out

Cancún’s legendary nightlife never tires or becomes less tacky through the decades–that’s the glory of it. Coco Bongo (883–5061) is the epicenter, with live entertainment ranging from impersonators to trapeze artists, and an enthusiastically fist–pumping multi–generational tourist crowd. Dady’O (883–3333) is another hot spot known for pounding dance music, hyper peeps and typical Cancún craziness. For more of a cocktail lounge atmosphere, try Nectar Bar by the Nichupte Lagoon; it offers different live music every night and (hellooo!) a Jacuzzi lounge. For obvious reasons, the dress code here is flip–flop stylish with a swimsuit underneath. Finally, for those who have kids but still want to boogie, set sail on El Galeón del Capitan Hook: after the vittles and the interactive pirate show (and arrgh, matey, it be a fine one!), the tunes change to hip–hop and disco, and tipsy landlubbers dance all the way back to the harbor.

Don’t Miss

Believe it or not, there are things worth leaving your blissed–out butler–serviced sun lounger for: Snorkeling at the barrier reef, which is the world’s second–largest behind the Great Barrier Reef in Australia, unveils the brilliant underwater life of the Caribbean–so different from the concrete city that’s emerged in the last few decades. At landmark eco–theme park Xcaret (800–2–XCARET) , visitors can SNUBA, take a submarine ride, see a reenactment of a Maya ritual, or get nose–to–nose with fish in the Coral Reef Aquarium. Got the urge to burn pesos? Browse the pricey Luxury Avenue (877–477–5348) boutiques downtown, then go over to Mercado 28 and haggle for handicrafts, silver jewelry and kitsch. Finally, save a full day to visit Chichén Itzá, magnificent site of the world’s most famous Maya ruins.

Stone’s Throw

If you liked snorkeling and swimming in the ocean, jump into a cenote–a groundwater pool fed by the Yucatán’s underground river system. Locals can point you to the ones safe for swimming, from famous ones like Gran Cenote and Casa Cenote outside Tulum, to the string of cenotes near the fishing village of Puerto Morelos. Or visit Rio Secreto (800–985–2664), a nature reserve featuring a swimmable section of underground river, and visitor–accessible caves with ancient stalactite and stalagmite growth. Daytrip by boat to Isla Mujeres, the charming, colorful island formerly sacred to the Maya goddess Ixchel.

The Lowdown

LOW DOWN with Orlando Arroyo. This visionary developer helped create Cancún’s current identity through early work with the National Tourism Development Fund, and now he’s ushering in the era of the eco–resort as CEO of Hacienda Tres Ríos.

Favorite way to spend a day with friends and family? Being in or on the water. Scuba diving, exploring islands by boat, or just floating carelessly in it.

The most beautiful sight in Cancún… The sunset over the lagoon.

What is your favorite indigenous animal? I love the tejones. They’re the cutest little critters, especially the babies.

What $100 Buys You in Cancún
  • Say hello to a dolphin, get a kiss, and even shake his “hand” (er, flipper) at the Isla Mujeres Dolphin Encounter program (all ages, swimming optional).
  • For a little bit over $100 (between $115–125), play a twilight round at the Tom Fazio–designed golf course at brand–new Cancún Country Club.
  • One–day general admission to Xel–Ha (884–7165), Cancún’s other great theme park–food, drinks and snorkel equipment included–plus $20 for a 30–minute snorkel class to remind you of the basics.
  • One–hour “Jungle Runner” tour for two. Ride your own Wave Runner III from Marina Barracuda through the Nichupte Lagoon and up the coastline.
  • If you didn’t find good gifts for sisters or girlfriends back home, pick up beautiful silk scarves and silver bangles at Pineda Covalin in the Cancún airport duty–free shops.
Lena Katz blogs on Mexico and the Caribbean monthly for Orbitz. She also has covered Mexico for Arthur Frommer Girlfriend Getaways, Away Networks, Brides and E!

Tagged: Cancún, Mexico, all-inclusives, dolphin experience, Riviera Maya, nightlife, John Gray, eco-parks, cenote, XelHa, Xcaret, Pineda Covalin, beach resorts, spring break