True Traveler - Kansas City
True Kansas City

The City of Fountains—second only to Rome with more than 200—Kansas City balances the sweet and low tones of swingstyle jazz with the tangy piquant of its famous barbecue joints. But this booming Missouri metropolis offers much more than just luscious cuts of steak and jazz-era cool, and is now turning heads with its revamped entertainment venues, one of the most concentrated gallery districts in the country and, of course, an always-welcoming Midwest manner.

The Lowdown

Local king of barbecue, Ollie Gates of Gates and Sons Bar-B-Q shares his favorite Kansas City pastimes.

Familiar Ground: The 18th and Vine Historic District is one of my favorite places. I remember looking forward to turning 21 so I could go to the Blue Room. It’s still a great place to see music.

Special Seasoning: I really enjoy that Kansas City has four very different seasons. The holidays are the greatest time of the year for my family. Everyone is in a jovial mood, the city is beautifully lit and The Plaza lighting is something you’ve just got to see.

Game On: Chiefs games are always a good time. The fan enthusiasm is great. We have to support our major league teams—I don’t think the city would be the same without them.

Thread Count

The Hyatt Regency Crown Center (816-421-1234) will treat you to skyline views and is just a heated skywalk away from some of the city’s best shopping at the three-level Crown Center. A symbol of warmth and hospitality, an 11-foot-tall golden winged statue has welcomed guests to Hotel Phillips (800-433-1426) for more than 75 years. Cozy up to the bar at the hotel’s restaurant, 12 Baltimore, for one of the juiciest burgers in town. The Q Hotel + Spa (800-942-4233) is Kansas City’s first green hotel, complete with a free hybrid shuttle service, guest bicycles, all-natural Aveda bath products and beds topped with every type of pillow you could possibly crave.

Food Fix

Sample three of the biggest names in barbecue, starting at Gates Bar-B-Q (816-753-0828). Known for its meaty ribs and chicken wings, this has been a Kansas City family institution since 1946. Signature hickory-fired ovens have earned Fiorella’s Jack Stack Barbecue (816-531-7427) a Zagat top pick, while the pit-masters at Arthur Bryant’s (816-231-1123) are famous for sweetening the sauce with molasses. For soul food with an upscale spin, try the Mississippi fried catfish or sweet-potato pie at Peachtree Restaurant (816-886-9800). And treat yourself at The American Restaurant (816-545-8001). The Kansas City crown jewel offers a well-rounded wine list and seasonally inspired dishes with a penthouse view of downtown.

Night Out

Get stage-side at Jardine’s Restaurant and Jazz Club (816-561-6480) for an all-star lineup of local and national acts. Order a Winter in Buenos Aires—a customized cocktail of Brazilian rum, cinnamonbark syrup, lemon juice and roasted butternut-squash purée—at the speakeasy-style Manifesto (in the basement of 1924 Main, 816-536-1325). Hit the newest hotspot, the Power & Light District (877-697-5347), for eight blocks of restaurants, bars, shopping and entertainment. The late-night scene can be a little touristy, but it’s also dotted with linger-worthy locals’ hangouts. Try the Flying Saucer Draught Emporium (816-221-7468) and choose from more than 225 brews from 15 countries. Famous for gifted performers and nine-ounce martinis, the Drum Room (816-303-1686) has hosted celebrities such as Frank Sinatra, Sammy Davis, Jr. and Patsy Cline.

Don't Miss

Work up a sweat with high-pressure “Beat the Clock” and “Shoot From Downtown” interactive exhibits at the Sprint Center’s College Basketball Experience (816-949-7500). Fresh-air ice-skating at the Crown Center Ice Terrace (816-274-8444) is a wintertime favorite for locals and visitors. The It’s Big exhibition at the National Archives in Kansas City (816-268-8000) displays future-shaping pieces of history, including the original complaint from Brown v. Board of Education. Working train depot Union Station (816-460-2020) is the ultimate kids’ stop, with theaters, a hands-on science center and the region’s largest planetarium. Hit the historic crossroads of 18th and Vine, and learn the story behind icons like Louis Armstrong and Ella Fitzgerald at the American Jazz Museum (816-474-8463). Serious jazz enthusiasts make a night of it at Depression-era nightclub The Mutual Musicians Foundation (816-471-5212)—a jazz spot that gets going Friday and Saturday around midnight and jams until 5:30 a.m.


What $100 Buys You in Kansas City
  • Two tickets to the Kansas City Ballet’s (www.kcballet.org) Lambarena for a beautiful concoction of African rhythms and Bach.
  • Dinner for two during Restaurant Week (www.kansascityrestaurantweek.com), January 22–31, when the city’s best culinary institutions offer $30 multi-course dinners.
  • An inspiring piece from Art Bidz (www.artbidz.net) in the Crossroads Art District. First Friday silent auctions showcase paintings, sculpture, fashion and furniture.
  • Two seats at the “Jammin’ at the Gem Valentine’s Celebration: A Night for Young Lovers” February 13 at the Gem Theater (www.americanjazzmuseum.com).
  • A few joyrides on the mechanical bull at The Beaumont Club (http://beaumontkc.com) followed by a rock-concert/movie double bill.
  • A hand-beaded birdcage, recycled-rubber handbag and other creative collectables from Stuff (www.pursuegoodstuff.com), a Brookside neighborhood favorite overflowing with unique buys.

Retail Therapy

Nibble on homemade fudge and kettle corn at City Market (816-842-1271). Merchants from nearby farms and greenhouses set up shop rain or shine year-round at this popular weekend farmers’ market. For vinyl figurines and plush dolls, check out designer toy store Poptopia (816-931-9800)—one of many funky shops in the Westport Historic District. Designed to resemble Seville, Spain, with elaborate fountains, towers and art, Country Club Plaza (816-753-0100) is a legendary 15-block retail district. Tiffany and Armani bump storefronts with local faves like Hemline, where you’ll find some of the best designer labels in the city. Zona Rosa (816-587-8180), on the upscale north side, is an outdoor shopping village boasting national brand names, while downtown’s Crown Center (816-274-8444) is anchored by hometown luxury store Halls Crown Center and hosts festivals, concerts and magic shows.

Stone's Throw

Try your luck on the Missouri River at the Isle of Capri (816-855-7777) and Harrah’s (816-472-7777) casinos, both located north of downtown. A 35-mile jaunt northwest, Weston, dubbed the “town that time forgot,” is an antique collector’s dream. Quench post-shopping thirst at O’Malley’s 1842 Pub (816-640-5235) and sample Irish suds in the cellar of one of the oldest breweries west of the Hudson. The Jesse James Farm & Museum (816-736-8500), just 25 miles away in Kearney, features the guns and boots the outlaw was wearing when he was assassinated.

Events - Jan & Feb 2010

Through January 17 Country Club Plaza Season of Lights The Plaza

Celebrate the 80th anniversary of this tradition with 80 miles of colorful bulbs.

Through February 21Hide & Seek: Picturing Childhood The Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art

Delve into the cultural fascination of youth through photographic exploration.

February 16-21 Broadway Across America Presents “Young Frankenstein” Music Hall Kansas City

Laugh out loud at Mel Brooks’ musical rendition of this classic fright flick.

Lisa Pogue is a Denver-based travel writer with sweet-corn-fed Midwestern roots. She makes sure to indulge in barbecue and other simple pleasures whenever she’s back in the heartland.